Today, I visited two key destinations that have been on my
to-see list from the beginning: the National Portrait Gallery and Foyles, one
of the greatest bookstores in all of the British Isles.
The National Portrait Gallery houses artwork—portraits—of famous
people in British history, particularly monarchs. The main reason, however, I
wanted to attend was because of the current display, Vivien Leigh: A Centennial
Display, which you can read about here. I am a classic movie fan, and Vivien
has always been my favorite actress. I consider her performance in A Streetcar Named Desire one of the
finest by an actress on screen, to say nothing of her iconic role as Scarlett O’Hara.
Upon hearing about this celebration of her life and knowing I would be in
London for it, I was thrilled and put this on my list of sights to see.
The gallery boasted of presenting a lifetime’s worth of
memorabilia and photography—a real celebration. My new friend Jessica, who is
also a Vivien fan, and I reached the gallery—without getting lost, which was
remarkable—and immediately sought the Vivien display. Much to our disappointment,
the display featured a rather barren array of photographs; I’ve seen more
diverse pictures in biographies about Vivien. There were about five or six
magazine covers and three walls containing a small number of small photographs.
There were only a few 5x7 photos from Gone
with the Wind, and there was only one photo from her glorious and
exhaustively prolific stage career. There was absolutely nothing about her
Shakespearean performances, no reviews, no posters, no stage pictures—a poor and,
frankly, lazy display if there ever was one. As a fan, I felt very disappointed
and mildly irritated. This is how England chooses to celebrate the centennial
of one of its greatest artists? Better make that very irritated. I did purchase the two postcards they had of her, though, but will just keep them rather than mail them:
The disrespect to Vivien Leigh aside, I found the National
Portrait Gallery a rewarding experience. One can view the portraits of monarchs
as far back as the early Tudors. The wall-length paintings of Elizabeth I were
breathtaking to see in person, as were the portraits of other key players in
British history, including Mary Wollstencraft and her daughter, Mary Shelley; Lord
Byron; Charles I; and even a very unsettling portrait of Prince Charles—he is
sitting on a bench, turned to the audience, looking shocked that his image is
being captured. There were also busts galore, including medieval sculptures of
the earliest monarchs, beginning with Edward II. One of the most amusing displays
was a section devoted to murder plots against British royals. Among the many
items was a deck of cards from the 17th century devoted to different
murder attempts—a different plot for each suit. Each card (from 2 to Ace)
featured a different “step” in the plot. When Jessica and I arrived in the gift
shop and found cards, we were disappointed and surprised to see the museum did
not have replicas of this deck for sale. I think they’re missing out on a
goldmine here.
Additionally, there was a portrait of the great poet John
Donne. Anyone even vaguely familiar with Donne’s work knows how erotic his
poetry was. For the uninitiated, his most famous poem is “The Flea,” in which
he wishes he were a flea so that he could feed on his lover’s blood all the
time. You can read it here. Rather raunchy stuff for the 16th
century, eh? I mention this because Jessica and I were amused at his portrait.
Isn’t it striking John Donne dressed like a hippie? Go ahead, try to deny his
resemblance to Jimi Hendrix:
As anyone who has read Hitchens knows, you can feel your IQ increasing just reading one sentence of that man’s writing. His introduction, which I just read, is brilliant and delineates with great economy the differences and similarities between Huxley and Orwell. His discussion is interesting and full of interesting trivia. I feel silly admitting this, but until now I did not know Huxley was Orwell’s instructor at Eton, nor did I know Orwell had a rather chauvinistic and superior attitude toward Brave New World, going so far as to accuse Huxley of plagiarizing Zemyatin’s We. I’ve read both books and can assure you Huxley did not plagiarism him.
One fact that was excluded, however, was that one of Huxley’s
key influences in writing Brave New World
was not a science fiction writer at all; it was Edith Wharton. One of my
favorite writers, Wharton nourished the careers of many now well-respected
modernist writers, including Fitzgerald, Sinclair Lewis, and…Aldous Huxley. She
despised the Modernist movement itself, though, and the 1920s particularly, but
she did enjoy helping new talent. Huxley visited her often while she lived in
France, usually discussing literature with her. When Brave New World was published and Wharton wrote him and called it a
“masterpiece,” Huxley responded that she had laid the groundwork for him in her
earlier novel Twilight Sleep. Few
people seem to be aware of this fact, but it is true. This article goes in to
detail about the two books’ similarities, focusing mostly on Wharton’s novel. I
mention this because I felt Hitchens’s introduction would have been stronger had
he acknowledged this. Sadly, we still reside in a world in which intellectual
vigor and innovation are still seen as inherently masculine, and the study of
literature still gives higher credence to the men than the women. Indeed, it is
this very attitude that has spurred the ambivalently useful term “women
writers,” suggesting there is something separate—in need of segregation—pertaining
to women who are authors. Hitchens only discusses the male influences on Huxley
but ignores this crucial yet overlooked bit of literary history.
In spite of this shortcoming, I am pleased with the purchase
and especially with the store. The building is located on Charing Cross Road,
which lies amid a smattering of theaters and small bookshops. I cannot think of
a more perfect combination than theater and books, and this bookshop was most
impressive. At five stories arranged in an open and alternating manner, Foyles
has a tremendous amount of books. The fiction—children’s, young adult, and
adult—is arranged by reading level, genre, and then alphabet. For instance, to
find Brave New World, one must go to
the adult fiction floor, find the literature section, and then find the “H”
section. I loved this cataloging system and found everything easily. How I
managed to buy only one book is incredible to me!
Additionally, the architecture itself was so elegant, yet so modern. All of the walls were glass, and the bookstore had huge windows, even in the ceiling—a perfect reading environment. The staircases were in slightly different places, which, along with the glass walls, made it extremely easy to see where the books you want are; you can actually just look up and see what is on the fourth floor. I’m not exaggerating!
Additionally, the architecture itself was so elegant, yet so modern. All of the walls were glass, and the bookstore had huge windows, even in the ceiling—a perfect reading environment. The staircases were in slightly different places, which, along with the glass walls, made it extremely easy to see where the books you want are; you can actually just look up and see what is on the fourth floor. I’m not exaggerating!
Overall, visiting these two places was a pleasure, and I am
most certainly returning to Foyles before I leave for home.
Most fittingly, as we crossed Waterloo Bridge on the way
home, I looked out over the beautiful view of the Thames and saw a rainbow
reaching stretching across the entire river. The rain had stopped for a moment
and the sun, for what felt to be an instant, shined through the odious clouds. The rainbow only lasted about one minute. It was one of the most beautiful things I have ever seen, and I doubt any
photography, no matter how sophisticated the technology, could possibly begin to capture it. This moment was rather fortuitous as we had accidentally
taken the wrong turn, causing us to get to the bridge later than we wanted to. Had
we gone the right way, we would have missed this sight altogether. Sometimes,
things just work out.
On that note, good night!


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